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History of Cheese Making in Sonoma Valley

By Sheana Davis, The Epicurean Connection
with the assistance of several Sonoma Valley citizens.

November 16th, 1931 marked the beginning of The Sonoma Valley Cheese Factory, a partnership between Thomas G. Vella and Celso Viviani which later became two producing factories, The Sonoma Cheese Factory and the Vella Cheese Company. Each factory continues to operate in the town of Sonoma, within a short walk to the Sebastiani Winery. Although all three of these manufacturers are local, you may locate their products in some of the finest cheese and wine shops in the nation.

During the early part of the century, Sonoma Valley dairy farmers transported their cans of milk via horse and wagon to the "Sonoma Mission Creamery" located on the corner of East Spain Street and First Street East, across from the historic Mission St. Francis Solano de Sonoma. This mirrors the marketing of Samuel Sebastiani who carted wine out to the stone quarry employees offering wine to them in masons for five cents per ladle.

The Vella Cheese Company operation of today is actually a resurrection of a business which opened at the same location back on November 16th in 1931. It was on that date that Thomas G. Vella and associate Celso Viviani opened their new business together as Sonoma Valley Creamery in a converted brewery, originally home to the Sonoma Ice and Brewing Company.

The building is made entirely of stone, quarried from locations above the Sonoma Mountain Cemetery. "The Brewery" was operated by a corporation of local businessmen as the "Sonoma Ice and Brewing Company". This company successfully produced lager style beers and provided spirit to the entire Sonoma Valley. When Prohibition arrived and halted the production of beer, the company became a distributor for "Near Beer" and "Grape Juice", ice and near carbonated beverages. This change in marketing was not successful and the brewery closed.

When the building converted into a creamery, they produced primarily Italian types of cheese, including Dry and fresh Monterrey Jack. Both Thomas G. Vella and Celco Viviani worked in the creamery producing these types of cheese together.

When World War II in arrived 1941, Sonoma Mission Creamery closed it's Sonoma plant and the milk patrons were absorbed by Sonoma Valley Cheese Factory which continued to produce all types of cheese for the war effort. While this transition was occurring, Thomas G. Vella and Celso Viviani built a new plant at #2 Spain Street, where the Sonoma Cheese Factory is located today. This site incorporated Fochetti's Blacksmith shop, which furnished the ironwork to the Sebastiani Winery.

Celso Viviani and Thomas G. Vella dissolved their partnership in Sonoma in 1948, and Thomas G. Vella continued sole production in Central Point Oregon. Pete Viviani joined his father as a partner in 1953 at the #2 Spain Street location and operated the Sonoma Cheese factory until 1969 when his son David and so- in-law Fred Harland joined Pete in a three-way partnership under the name Sonoma Cheese Factory. Over the years, Sonoma Cheese Factory expanded production and added a retail store and deli to the operation.

In 1950, Thomas G. Vella returned to a Sonoma location to re-start production at the original Sonoma Mission Creamery, at the corner of East Spain Street and First Street East.

When the old Sonoma Ice and Brewing Company building site became available, Thomas G. Vella re-invented it as a cheese making facility. Between prohibition, the building had once been home to a mushroom growing company, used for dry storage and was damaged severely by a fire. Thomas G. Vella spent a considerable amount of time and efforts reconstructing the building to return its original dimensions. Today, Vella Cheese Company continues to produce many varieties of cheese that are available in in their retail store, local markets, and Sebastiani Winery as well as cheese and wine shops throughout the nation.

With Vella Cheese Company, Sonoma Cheese Factory and Sebastiani Winery continuing to be part of the agricultural community in Sonoma Valley, they are each proud to live, work and participate in their local community Sonoma Valley.

All companies are proud winners of many awards; local, state, national and even international awards.

Vella Cheese Company offers Dry Jack, Mezzo Secco, Toma, Romanello, Asiago, Asiago Pepato, High Moisture Jack, Italian Table Cheese/Fontinella and a selection of raw and pasteurized Cheddars.

Sonoma Cheese Company is host to a cheese retail and deli, although cheeses are no longer made on site.

 

 

Cheesemaking in Sonoma

 

Vella Cheese Company

Vella Cheese is located on Second Street East within walking distance to the central Plaza in Sonoma.
Sonoma Cheese Factory
Sonoma Cheese Factory is located right on the Plaza on Spain St.
Cheese and wine combo

 

Sheana Davis photo